Yamaha TDM Forum

In cazul meu rezolvarea a fost cat se poate de banala insa voi dezvolta putin pentru cine se mai loveste de problema asta ca sa nu mai piarda timpul aiurea.
Asadar simptome:
- pornire grea sau deloc dimineata.
- baterie moarta cand dai la automat, la 2-3 minute dupa ce s-a oprit motorul.
- la aprinderea luminilor si in special a fazei lungi, scadere de turatie cu circa 400-500rpm.
- fluctuatii (200-300 rpm) ale turometrului la relanti.
- "dat in nas" in timpul mersului, senzatia de gunoi in carburator.
- curentul bateriei 12,6v cu motorul oprit, incarcarea cu motorul pornit de 13v la relanti si maxim 12,8v la 5000rpm cu consumatori sau fara.
La sugestia lui Allvlad am desfacut cablul de minus de sub sa, care era destul de imbaxit neavand mansonul protector de cauciuc. Deh, detalii de japonezi obsedati. L-am curatat, l-am pus la loc si am pornit motorul. Dupa primele masuratori am avut senzatia ca am si baterie si releu noi! Curent de incarcare ca la carte! 14-14,3v! Cand am dat la automat abia am atins butonul si a plecat! Toate simptomele de mai sus au disparut.
Concluzia: nimic nu se compara cu o masa buna.


P.S. Pozele sunt pentru colegul truckeru_09. Sper sa ii fie de folos.

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Agentie de turism
Vacante Grecia

Releul de incarcare.

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Agentie de turism
Vacante Grecia

Releul de incarcare.

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Agentie de turism
Vacante Grecia

am si eu aceleasi simtome, maine vedem ce putem rezolva. Paste fericit la toata lumea.

Pentru verificarea bateriei si a releului, am gasit urmatorul tutorial foarte util:
1. Place a multi meter on the battery terminals and check for battery voltage, it should be around 12.5V.
2. Turn the key on and check battery voltage again. It should not have dropped more than 0.5V.
3. Push the starter button while keeping an eye on the multimeter, it should not drop past 11.5V. (in anumite cazuri, caderea de tensiune poate fi pana la 9V dar nu mai putin de atat!!).
4. Bring RPMs up to around 3000-3500, battery voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5V. If voltage the rises and battery fails one of the first 3 tests, the battery is bad. If the voltage doesn't rise, or rises slightly, it could be the regulator/rectifier, or the stator that has given up the ghost.
5. Ok, so the battery is good, now to figure out if the regulator/rectifier or the stator has failed:
Unplug the stator leads from the reg/rec. There should be 3 wires, usually yellow or white.
6. Set multimeter on resistance scale(ohms Ω). Test resistance between each of the three wires coming off of the stator. 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. Resistance should be present, it will vary depending on type of stator. If there is no resistance between any two leads, the stator is bad.
7. Test the resistance of each wire to ground(any available motor bolt will do). There should be no resistance, you should get the infinity symbol (∞), or OL depending on the multimeter. If there is resistance between any lead and ground, stator is bad.
8. Set the multimeter to volts AC. Start motorcycle and check voltage between each of the three leads coming off the stator at 3000RPM. The AC voltage should be between 75 and 150 volts AC.
9. If the stator passes all tests, the regulator is bad.

Sursa: http://www.ehow.com/how_5283056_check-m ... ystem.html
Si un filmulet: http://www.ehow.com/video_2330193_check ... ttery.html

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Agentie de turism
Vacante Grecia

"care era destul de imbaxit"

Poate vrei sa spui "imbacsit", bai agramatule.

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Agentie de turism
Vacante Grecia

bine ca te-ai corectat